Antarctica pt 2 - The Drake Passage

People on the SilverSea passenger Facebook page warned us that to cross the Drake Passage we would need scopalene patches, wrist bands and seasickness pills.  We got patches before we left, applied them the evening we were leaving the anchorage off Puerto Williams and went to sleep as the ship began its entry in to the Passage.

The night was a bit rough and a few times thought I would roll off the bed. Fortunately, it wasn’t an issue. At both breakfast and lunch, we noticed that people were missing and overheard several people say their roommate skipped the meal because they weren’t feeling well. Sometime after lunch, I realized my patch had come off in the shower. Even though I felt fine, I replaced it before dinner.

At the pre-dinner briefing, people reported seeing several whales. We are terrible spotters and saw nary a whale or any other mammal. People said birds were plentiful but all we saw was one lone albatross.

The passengers are mostly older, like us, but there is one father with a couple of 20 something children, and what may be two or three younger honeymooners. There are also some folks in their 40’s-50’s. 

The second day crossing the Drake Passage was just like the first without the one albatross. Again, I lost my patch in the shower but this time didn’t replace it and I was fine. Michele is more talented than me and her patch didn’t come off until she consciously took it off the next day.

We went to sleep to the gentle rolling of the ship as we finished our passage through the Passage, awakening the next morning to our arrival at the Antarctic Peninsula.

Antarctica Part 1

Knowing I would be retiring in the summer of 2022, I decided that for my “retirement trip” I wanted to go to Antarctica. I had wanted to go for a number of years but with working, never seemed to have the time. So, in early 2021, Michele and I worked with our cruise consultant, Ross Spalding at Crown Cruises, and decided we would sail to Antarctica on the Silver Explorer. We decided on the Explorer because it is a smaller ship which would enable everyone on board to land on the continent multiple times.

In 2021, when we booked the cruise, we were still dealing with the idea that the COVID Pandemic was still upon us. So we booked the second last cruise of the season, leaving Argentina on February 16, 2022. Even without COVID, we get trip insurance for these kinds of adventures. So between the insurance and the timing of the trip, we felt prepared in case, by some odd chance, the pandemic was still upon us. 

Within weeks, we received word from SilverSea that, because of Argentina’s closure due to COVID, we would not be leaving from Argentina, but rather from Puerto Williams, Chile. Fortunately, we had the foresight to buy our airfare through SilverSea so that was not a problem.

As the trip got closer, COVID still raged and Chile imposed some pretty strict entry requirements. We had to be fully vaccinated (easy.) We would need a negative PCR test within 72 hours of boarding our connecting flight to Santiago. That was a bit more difficult as most tests in Albuquerque were taking 72 - 96 hours, and we would need to take the test on the weekend. Fortunately, we found that the Albuquerque Sunport has a facility to get test results within 24 hours. It’s more expensive but necessary. Upon arriving at the Santiago Airport, the Chilean Government would do another PCR test and SilverSea would put us up in a hotel to quarantine until the results came back, which they did within 12 hours. Oh, and upon arrival at the hotel, SilverSea administered another PCR test. We never heard, but since we are on the ship and not in quarantine, we are assuming that test was also negative.

So after leaving Albuqueque on February 14, flying overnight to Santiago, quarantining for a night there, it was finally February 16. We were transported back to the airport for the charter flight to Puerto Williams to board the Explorer. Much to SilverSea’s credit, it was the most organized boarding of a cruise ship of our 20+ cruises. I’m sure there only being 73 passengers helped, but the ship’s staff was wonderful.

Aboard and unpacked, we were ready to cross the Drake Passage, the last leg before arriving on the southern most continent. But, alas, the winds were against us and there were 10 - 15 meter swells in the Drake so we anchored in the Puerto Williams harbor for a full 24 hours before we could begin our crossing. Finally, the swells were down to 4 - 5 meters and our journey began.